Restaurants & Cafes
Our neighborhood offers visitors a diverse selection of restaurants and cafes, from traditional French bistro fare to ethnic cuisine, all within walking distance from the apartment. The selection below highlights some of our favorites.
Of course the best and most economical breakfast is the one you’ll prepare in the apartment. There are however some very attractive alternatives in our neighborhood.
Au Bouquet St. Paul on the corner of rue Saint Paul and rue Saint Antoine advertises French as well as English or Continental breakfasts. They also speak several languages matching their breakfast offerings. The rest of the time it is a restaurant/wine bar with a nice selection of wines and light entrees.
Tartine has entrances both on rue de Rivoli and rue du Roi de Sicile. This is a lovely café/restaurant, very French “charme”. If you want croissants with your café crème make sure you get here early since they often run out around 10 AM .
Just a couple of buildings down from the apartment on rue du Roi de Sicile is Bucheron (also with an entrance on rue Saint Antoine). Good for breakfast and in-between meals but even better for Italian fresh pasta at lunch. Note the ingenious placing of the menus – they are inserted in a slot in the middle of the table.
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Dalloyau has several branches around Paris – this one is conveniently located near the Place de la Bastille. Superb pastries and cakes for tea time in the restaurant on the second floor or for take out.
For Lunch & Dinner
Please note that in general you should make reservations for dinner even if it’s only a day ahead or on the day of your visit – depending on the restaurant of course. We have found to our detriment that even the regular neighborhood places fill up almost every night of the year and that it can be difficult getting a table without a reservation.
Chez Janou has a lovely terrace out front and a pair of interconnected dining rooms inside. It’s a bustling place but oddly relaxing. Provençal cuisine, a good wine list, and a selection of clear and potent Eau de Vie’s at reasonable prices make this bistro behind the Place des Vosges a great place for an easy lunch or extended dinner. Try their chocolate mousse for dessert – it’s a revelation. 2, rue Roger Verlhomme, 3rd arrondissement, 01.42.72.28.41.
Le Petit Marché is the sister restaurant of Chez Janou. Small, charming with excellent bistro fare, Le Petit is an excellent alternative to Chez Janou and just a short two block walk from Place des Vosges. Try the fresh fois gras as a starter followed by a succulent lamb brochette or confit de canard. 9, Rue Béarn, 3rd arrondisement, 01 42 72 06 67.
Les Vins du Pyrenées is a wine bar/restaurant with a rotating selection of wines by the glass or bottle. Traditional bistro dishes with a modern twist that change seasonally. With its lively and comfortable atmosphere and friendly service this has become a perennial favorite of ours. 25, rue Beautreillis, 4 th arrondissement, 01.42.72.64.94, (English spoken)
Bistro Le Peintre is a little bit outside of the Marais – in the Bastille area - but in walking distance (15-20 mins.) of the apartment. A large terrace with an upstairs and downstairs traditional bistro interior with peeling paint and tight quarters. It’s warm and welcoming and offers well executed bistro dishes. Hangar steak and lentil salad with sausages are only a couple of our favorites there. Avenue Ledru-Rollin , 11 th arrondissement, 01.47.00.34.39.
Le Loir dans la Theière (think Alice in Wonderland) is the best neighborhood place for brunch, enormous and wonderful cakes and tarts, as well as quiches and salads. The interior is a jumble of sofas, tables and armchairs that seem to just have arrived from the flea market. It’s a fun and bustling place perfect for the in-between appetite or if you want something less than a full three-course meal (although there is nothing small about the portions). It’s also a great place to bring kids. 3, rue des Rosiers, 4th arrondissement, 01.42.72.90.61 , no reservations taken.
Café Hugo – our preferred café on the Place des Vosges . It’s great for meeting people or just sitting and sipping while watching the world go by in this amazing square. They also serve food but we never tried – for us it’s a drinks only place. 19, place des Vosges , 4th arrondissement, 01.42.78.44.64 , no reservations necessary.
Les Philosophes is one of our fallback options if we do not want to make reservations or do not feel particularly hungry. It’s a neighborhood place for simple food such as steak tartare or rillettes to be shared with a pichet of wine. It can get busy though at night since everybody seems to have the same idea. Plus it’s a great people watching place. From the bathrooms’ inside windows you can also observe stacks of books in the National Archives next door. 28, rue Vielle du Temple , 4th arrondissement, 01 .220.127.116.11, no reservations necessary.
Fallafel – there are a number of fallafel places right around the corner on the rue des Rosiers. None really stands out though we seem to end up at L’As de Fallafel most of the time for takeout – it’s good, quick, and efficient. Order the “Speciale” and you’ll get the whole works. 34, rue des Rosiers, 4th arrondissement, 01 .18.104.22.168, takeout or small tables inside.
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